The Vanoise comprises the great mass of mountains between the Isere river in the north and the Arc to the South. It includes well known ski resorts like Val D'Isere, Tignes, Les Arcs, La Plagne and the Trois Vallées. There are several choices of route here. The GR5 heads east via Val D'Isere to the Col D'Iseran and then loops back through the Vanoise to Modane. A 'low' route alternative also curves back to Modane. We choose to walk the 'more exciting' GR55 high route that heads through the middle of the Vanoise with more climbing but saving a couple of days.

Leaving Landry is a reverse of the previous day with a long climb out of the valley - 1500m in total. Steep paths lined with oaks and cherry trees take us up through fields and past smart chalets eventually reaching the pretty village of Peisey Nancroix on the edge of the Les Arcs ski area. The village shop provides a coffee and croissant stop before we head on up following a river and then traverse up through flowery meadows and woods with great views of waterfalls and Mont Pourri. We climb around the shoulder on the right of the photo below centre to reach a high valley as the weather deteriorates. A small hut near the path has a bivvy shelter and we squeeze in here and brew some soup as a storm hits. Our luck has finally run out and we head on up the path, turning right around a lake and across screes to reach the Refuge Entre Le Lac in pouring rain, thunder and lightning.

Flowers and waterfalls, Les Bettieres and Mt Pourri, wild rose

The refuge is charming and unusual. Decorated with pot plants it has a pony and hut cat and outbuildings with hot showers. The main accomodation is a long 'cave' of a room with an unlit dormitory behind. There are only 6 other guests so we have lots of room. A wood burning stove makes the hut cosy and extra blankets keep us warm as we sleep at night.

Refuge Entre Le Lac

"Anyone want a cereal bar?" asks John trying to relieve a bit of weight in his pack as we leave the hut. Today is a long one - over 27km - and also a marmotte day. We hear them whistling as we leave the hut and have frequent sightings throughout the day. The storm has passed in the night and we spend 40 minutes climbing back to the GR5 under blue skies. A pretty valley leads up to the Refuge de Col de Palet with great views of the Grande Motte and two tufted ducks are swimming in a pond just over the col. A broad path leads on down past chair lifts and runs into Val Claret. Here the GR5 heads on to Tignes but we turn right and follow the GR55 up the Vallon Paquis. A golden eagle is soaring on the cliffs opposite. The geology is varied as we climb - dolomitic limestone, marble and schist. Day walkers sit by the path having come up by chair lift enjoying views back to Mt Blanc (below right). There are a few snow patches as we reach the Col de la Leisse (2758m) but not as much as we had been warned about in the guidebook.

A wild rocky valley leads down past a few lakes under the Grande Motte ski glacier. There is little vegetation as we pass a dried up lake. Past the Refuge de la Leisse the valley becomes greener with a big stream and imposing cliff faces and mountains on either side. More marmottes pose as we pass and a huge waterfall plummets down a sloping cleft from the Col de Vanoise where we are going tomorrow. We keep going for another km to reach the Refuge Entre Deux Eaux. Another very comfortable hut in a spectacular position with good showers and loos!

Marmotte, Ascending to the Col de la Leisse with view back to Mt Blanc

Waterfall from the Col de Vanoise, Refuge Entre Deux Eaux

A 7.30 start and back down the way we came yesterday to a stone bridge that we cross and join a very well made path that zigzags steadily up towards the Grand Casse. We take a break at some military fortifications at the top of the steep section before continuing up to a dramatic high valley that comprises the Col de la Vanoise. Lots of walkers are come the other way - the MCF hut at the col is the most popular in the Vanoise. We inspect the receding glacier of the Grand Casse before heading down past the impressive Aiguille de Vanoise and a small lake before crossing the next lake (Lac des Vaches) on neatly laid stepping stones. A chap comes up past us setting up little pink flags for a mountain race the next day.

It's now down, down, down. First to the Refuge des Barmettes, and then a long descent in the woods to a car park at Fontanettes and finally another path down to Pralongan-la-Vanoise, a pretty, small ski resort. We find a jolly restaurant where a crazy waiter serves us salads, tartare de boeuf and 1664 beer. After lunch we are heading up again, through woods and along a stream to a touristy hamlet of Les Prioux and then up a steeper, more open path to the Refuge Roc de la Peche. The trail is very popular with day walkers and the refuge is more like a small hotel with a big restaurant, and smart little rooms with en suite showers.

In the Col de la Vanoise

Looking back across the Lac des Vaches, View back from the Refuges des Barmettes

Today's hike takes us over the highest point on our entire walk although the climbing is not so great as the hut is already over 1900m. There was a big storm in the night and heavy rain in the morning but by 7.30 it is clearing when we set off in light rain and mist. We can no longer see the hanging glacier opposite but we do watch as a huge number of goats come out of the hut where they spent the night. This valley is famous for its blue thistle - we spot lots of flowers, harebells, king cups, tall yellow gentians - but not blue thistle. We have been following a road towards the Refuge Peclet Polset when a smaller, but still well made, path forks off to the right. The mist starts to lift and by the time we reach a 'faux col' we are getting great views again.

We reach an extraordinary 'plain of cairns'. In fact it makes route finding more tricky as you can't distinguish the real cairns! The landscape is very rocky - quartzite, schist, slate, limestone and granite erratics. We cross snow patches and rocky bands and then a steep, tricky path across crumbling schist leads to the col de Chaviere (2796m). Fabulous views towards Italy (see header above). The descent starts through a fine open valley down to the hameau of Polset. When we stop for a coffee the chatty owner tells us how ugly Modane/Forneaux is. There is then a long descent through the woods with a lot of slippy pine cones under foot until we finally reach Modane. We skirt the town and then follow the main street past the station to reach our accomodation - a comfortable flat with a rather eccentric owner.

The 'fake col' on the approach to the Col de Chaviere as the clouds clear

The 'plain of cairns', looking back from the Col de Chaviere

Modane is the end of the Vanoise and also of the 'Northern Alps'. From here on we notice a more Mediterranean feel - warmer and dryer. The first challenge is to get out of the valley. We are learning that if you have a steep valley descent one day then the opposite applies the next. We cross the railway and then go up the hill, under the motorway to Turin. There is a very steep climb in the woods to the small ski resort of Valfrejus where we stop for a coffee and pain-au-raisin. A good path leads on through hamlets to a car park at 1905m where day walkers are getting ready - and we have already climbed 850m! The views open out above the tree line with high pasture and eroded limestone towers on the way to the Col de la Vallée Étroite. We had planned to stay here at the Refuge de Thabor but it was full so we press on across the border between Savoie and Hautes Alps.

We notice how much drier the landscape is and also the number of wild flowers. To our surprise all the walkers we pass are speaking Italian. When we reach the huts at Les Granges the lady behind the counter explains that not only was the Vallée Étroite Italian until after the second World War but the only way to get to the valley is from Bardonècchia. The huts are Italian, the food is Italian and beer is served in Italian measures! Even the river flows into the Po. We have to split up as there were only two places left in the two huts so John and I stop in the Ref. I Re Magi while David and Adam go slightly up the hill to the Ref. Terzi Alpini. Both are good and probably far superior to the Refuge de Thabor. The rest of the afternoon is spent cooling off in the stream.

Looking back to the Col de Chaviere from above Valfrejus

Refuge de Thabor and Mt Tabor, Approaching Les Granges de la Vallée Étroite

Because we pressed on further than planned yesterday, we have a shorter day on what is our day 12. A steepish climb through the woods leads to high pasture with great views of the Grand Seru and the 'Three Kings' above Les Granges after which our hut was named. There are big groups from French walking clubs and wild campers at the Col des Thures (2194m). The col is the watershed between the Mediterrean and the Adriatic!

We descend through meadows and then down very eroded, sandy scree and into the woods. Below the woods the meadows are full of crickets and clouds of them fly up in front of the first walker. The air is hot and dry. We cross a Route Nationale and enter a wood by the river Clarée which flows into the Durance. This leads to the pretty village of Plampinet where we have lunch at our overnight stop, the Auberge Gite La Cleida. Plampinet is famous for its sundials and we spot several on some rather delapidated buildings and the little church. The auberge provides simple accomodation with a dortoir for six with good showers. We have a good supper in the vaulted dining room finished with a Thyme schnapps for Adam and Genepi for the rest of us. Our only complaint was too many flies in the garden.

Approaching the Col de Thures with Mt Thabor, Seru and 3 Kings, Eroded landscape above Nevache

On our last day we head up the road next to the Auberge and follow good zigzags on what appears to be a military road. Loads of sheep are being herded at Chalets des Acles. Another steep climb follows then the gradient eases with woods on our left and a big scree slope to the right. The trees end at about 2200m and we continue to the first col, the Col de Dormillouse (2445m). We follow a rising traverse around a combe to get fabulous views between two limestones cliffs of the Ecrin massif in the distance. More glaciers and a 4000+m peak.

The Col de la Lauze (2529m) is our last col of the trip. From here it is down through Alpine pastures, past ski lifts then along dirt roads to Montgenevre. This was one of the earliest French ski resorts and very popular in the 1930s. On down the road and then through woods for a long descent to Briancon which we enter across a stunning bridge over a gorge. We climb up to the old town gate and fortifications and head off to find a beer to celebrate a fantastic 13 days of walking - 283km and 14,500m of climbing. There is still another 11-13 days to get to the Mediterranean but that can wait until next year!

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Adam approaches the Col de la Lauze with the Ecrin massif in the distance

Col de la Lauze, the bridge and gorge at Briancon, entering Briancon