Gorilla headquartersCindy sets off up the hillWake up with tea at 5am, breakfast at 5.30 and away by 6 - what a way to spend a holiday. By 7 we are being sorted into groups at the VNP HQ at Kinigi. We are lucky and get the Susa Group - a chance to see the largest group of gorillas in the national park. Reputed to be a tough walk but one of the most spectacular groups.

The steep walk up to the forest boundary is a good chance to see the fields and farms up close. After cresting a steep slope we cross a field and reach a wall marking the forest boundary, an hour after leaving the car.

The rain starts as we enter the forest. We duck and weave through creepers and bamboo as we climb the steep, muddy slope. Eugene, our guide points out gorilla droppings and explains how the gorillas strip and eat the bamboo shoots which are in season. This is mildly alcholic - gorilla beer!
Climbing Karisimba Meet the gorillas Eugene tries a bamboo shoot
After half an your in the forest we meet the trackers. Just beyond 39 gorillas are stretched out in the sun, which has come out just in time. They eat bamboo, kids play and the older ones snooze. We are studiously ignored as mothers tend their babies and big silverbacks pose and beat their chests.

We have an hour to watch the group before they are left in peace for the next 24 hours. Enough time to take hundres of photos and to see these amazing creatures inteacting as a group.
Two big silverbacks have a stand off and the one on the right then rushes straight through our group causing us to scatter.

As we leave we get a fine view of Kiwiri, the leader (above right) keeping an eye on his family.
Our guards relax as we munch lunchHeading back down KirisimbaComing back down we get fine views of the mountain terracing and are well guarded by our guides. Click here for more gorillas...